tn_305540Great-Dane

The Standard can be download here
Group:
Group 7 (Non Sporting)
History:

General Appearance:
Very muscular, strongly though elegantly built, with look of dash and daring, of being ready to go anywhere and do anything. Head and neck carried high, tail in line with back, or slightly upwards, but never curled over hindquarters. Elegance of outline and grace of form most essential.
Characteristics:
Alert expression, powerful, majestic action displaying dignity.
Temperament:
Kindly without nervousness, friendly and outgoing.
Head And Skull:
Head, taken altogether, gives idea of great length and strength of jaw. Muzzle or foreface broad, skull proportionately narrow, so that whole head when viewed from above and in front, has appearance of equal breadth throughout. Length of head in proportion to height of dog. Length from nose to point between eyes about equal or preferably of greater length than from this point to back of occiput. Skull flat, slight indentation running up centre, occipital peak not prominent. Decided rise or brow over the eyes but not abrupt stop between them; face well chiselled, well filled in below eyes with no appearance of being pinched: foreface long, of equal depth throughout. Cheeks showing as little lumpiness as possible, compatible with strength. Underline of head, viewed in profile, runs almost in a straight line from corner of lip to corner of jawbone, allowing for fold of lip, but with no loose skin hanging down. Bridge of nose very wide, with slight ridge where cartilage joins bone (this is a characteristic of breed). Nostrils large, wide and open, giving blunt look to nose. Lips hang squarely in front, forming right-angle with upper line of foreface.
Eyes:
Fairly deep set, not giving the appearance of being round, of medium size and preferably dark. Wall, or odd eyes permissible in harlequins.
Ears:
Triangular, medium size, set high on skull and folded forward, not pendulous.
Mouth:
Teeth level. Jaws strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. the upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws.
Neck:
Neck long, well arched, quite clean and free from loose skin, held well up, well set in shoulders, junction of head and neck well defined.
Forequarters:
Shoulders muscular, not loaded, well sloped back, with elbows well under body. Forelegs perfectly straight with big flat bone.
Body:
Very deep, brisket reaching elbow, ribs well sprung, belly well drawn up. Back and loins strong, latter slightly arched.
Hindquarters:
Extremely muscular, giving strength and galloping power. Second thigh long and well developed, good turn of stifle, hocks set low, turning neither in nor out.
Feet:
Cat-like, turning neither in nor out. Toes well arched and close, nails strong and curved. Nails preferably dark in all coat colours, except harlequins, where light are permissible.
Tail:
Thick at the root, tapering towards end, reaching to or just below hocks. Carried in straight line level with back, when dog is moving, slightly curved towards end, but never curling or carried over back.
Gait/Movement:
Action lithe, springy and free, covering ground well. Hocks move freely with driving action, head carried high.
Coat:
Short dense and sleek looking, never inclined to roughness.
Colour:
Brindles- must be striped, ground colour from lightest buff to deepest orange, stripes always black, eyes and nails preferably dark, dark shadings on head and ears acceptable. Fawns- colour varies from lightest buff to deepest orange, dark shadings on head and ears acceptable, eyes and nails preferably dark. Blues- colour varies from light grey to deep slate, the nose and eyes may be blue. Blacks- black is black. In all above colours white is only permissible on chest and feet, but it is not desirable even there. Nose always black, except in blues and harlequins. Eyes and nails preferably dark. Mantle- Black and white with a solid, black blanket extending over the body. Ideally- black skull with white muzzle, white blaze optional, whole white collar preferred, a white chest, white on part or whole of the forelegs and hindlegs, white tipped black tail. Nose always black, eyes and nails preferably dark. Harlequins- pure white underground with preferably all black patches or all blue patches, having appearance of being torn. Light nails permissible. In harlequins, wall eyes, pink noses, or butterfly noses permissible but not desirable.
Sizes:
Height: Adult Dogs 76 cms (30 ins) over eighteen months Adult Bitches 71 cms (28 ins) over eighteen months Weight: Minimum Adult Dogs 54 kgs (120 lbs) over eighteen months Adult Bitches 46 kgs (100 lbs) over eighteen months
Faults:
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.
Notes:
Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
The Big 'Wus'

Great Dane could really be called "Great Friend". His needs are few and simple. Correct feeding, a warm place to sleep, exercise, but mainly love. He or she is a willing worker and quick to learn because he wants to please you. So be patient with your Dane, and you will be rewarded with loyalty, companionship and a natural guardian.


Danes thrive on love and companionship, and the quickest way to ruin their temperament is to throw them outside and away from the family. Try to let your Dane be as near to the centre of family activity as possible.


When your Dane wants to play, try and spend as much time as you can with him as it is this play time that is the foundation of the bond that grows between you.


It will not be unusual for you to see your Dane sitting with his hind on the lounge, with front feet on the floor in a very human-ike fashion. They also enjoy leaning on you, or sitting on your feet or burying their huge head in your lap.. Don't know why, they just do.



Anyone familiar with the dog world will readily acknowledge that there are fine dogs in every breed but, in our opinion, you will find more of the desirable qualities in Great Danes than any other breed. You will find almost every Great Dane owner ready to bend your ear to tell you how extremely 'people-loving' his dog is - "I don't think he knows he is a dog, he thinks he's human like the rest of us" goes the line !As companions and pals they are just wonderful, and in all our possessions we prefer the beautiful to the ordinary, and Great Danes are beautiful!


To those of you who are about to purchase a Great Dane, we say "How wonderful, good luck and may you find your Great Dane worth his weight in pure pleasure".

Socialisation
Great Danes are social dogs and get on very well with other animals. The main problem faced by Danes is that their huge size can intimidate other dogs. A well meaning Dane wanting to make a new friend can quickly find himself in an unwanted situation simply because the other dog may become frightened. Always supervise your Dane in the presence of other dogs or children.


Take your Dane on short walks to get him used to traffic and people. People will become interesting, and enjoyable for your Dane to be around. For the home, your Dane will alert you with a deep rumbling 'woof' should anyone approach, welcoming friends and warning strangers
Training
Please do not allow your puppy to jump up. This may be cute when young, but when fully grown and weighs 65 to 70kgs, his paws will be on your shoulders and his head resting on your head. This may be OK if you are a big person, but your children, family and friends may not be. It also places a huge strain on the back and legs, which may cause damage to your puppy. Everyone has his or her own methods of training a puppy, but the main thing to remember is patience. If your puppy does not respond to your commands, it does not mean that he is stubborn or willful or stupid, merely that he does not understand what you want him to do.

No matter how frustrated you get, NEVER NEVER beat him. Your hand should only be used to pat and praise him or he will become confused and frightened when the hand approaches him. With many breeds of dog, if they are beaten they will grovel at your feet - A GREAT DANE WON'T. You will have lost his trust and respect and once you have destroyed this you will never regain the bond that existed between you. Not only will he have lost confidence in you but also in himself. He will never again be the same dog. A Great Dane is very sensitive to your moods hence a firm "NO" when he does something that displeases you will usually have the desired effect. Just as lots of praise and pats when he does the right thing will bring the desired behaviour.
Rewards
Lots of praise and pats when he does the right thing. Always make a big fuss of your puppy when he does something right. Of course your Dane will appreciate a little tid-bit such as a piece of dried liver or a Schmacko or similar when he does the right thing. A good bone is a great source of entertainment and fun for your puppy but remember that once it has dried out it can become very brittle and stuck in his teeth or throat, so put it in the bin and give him a new one. If you can get your meat supplier to cut the bone with the marrow showing, that will be beneficial to your dog.
House Training
Although your puppy is not normally house-trained when you first get him, you will find that your puppy will not soil his bed area unless he has no alternative. Surround the bed with a couple of layers of newspapers as there are bound to be some accidents until your puppy understands what is expected of him. Remember, a young puppy has virtually no warning that he needs to go to the toilet.

Please do not resort to "Rubbing his nose in it", as this will only destroy his trust in you from the start. Start the habit of putting him out in the same place the moment he wakes up, before he goes to sleep and immediately after meals and he will be house-trained in a ma
Buyer Beware More and more frequently we are receiving photographs and questions from people who have purchased a puppy or adolescent Great Dane, but they are concerned that something about the dog is ‘not quite right’.

This has prompted us to compile the following check list for anyone considering purchasing a Great Dane of any age so you can be aware of the pitfalls to avoid.

  1. 1. Firstly, please do your RESEARCH. Look at websites, word of mouth, visit kennels of top winning dogs or buy or borrow a good book on Great Danes from your Library. This will give you a picture in your mind of what a good, sound Great Dane should look like. While a baby puppy will not fit this picture, the parents of the puppy should.

  2. 2. There are many ‘dodgy’ breeders around, both backyard and registered. Ask questions. A serious, registered Breeder will show their dogs – their aim is to better the breed and they want their breeding stock assessed. If they are just producing litter after litter without showing their dogs, or show average quality dogs, look elsewhere!!!! Backyarders may be cheaper initially, but chances are they did not undertake proper health testing before breeding their dogs or do not know how to rear giant breed puppies correctly, so you could be paying out 1000’s in the not too distant future. A puppy that is not raised the right way or who is from questionable breeding can suffer problems throughout its life.

  3. 3. When you are looking for a puppy – seeing them in person is best, and it is important not to be distracted by how cute they are! Things to look for are:- clear eyes with no ‘gunk’ in the corners; no loose red sore looking haws; a shiny coat and nice wet nose; no rashes, hives or bald patches or a big, round, worm burdened stomach. You want a solid, big boned puppy with a strong rear and topline; a nice croup – not too steep and whilst puppies sleep a lot, when he/she’s awake, should be playful, interacting with other puppies and full of energy – not listless and hunched up.

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  5. 4. If the breeder is only interested in how much money you have and doesn’t ask about your experience with puppies; where the pup will be accommodated; your daily routines; any other animals or children you might have and provide you with a maintenance, exercise and feeding sheet, worming and vaccination records and any other information you might need to raise a happy, healthy puppy, plus the promise of their support and back-up if needed RUN!!! This is not the sort of breeder you want to enter into a relationship with, and that’s what it should be – an ongoing relationship where the breeder looks forward to hearing from you and the progress your puppy is making and where you know you can go, at any time, for help and advice should something seem, not quite right